Hassocks: 21st Century Station

For reasons which I won’t go into I started my train journey at Hassocks – about 9 miles north of Brighton. Hassocks is on the main Brighton line but few trains actually stop there. I expect it used to have grand station buildings on both sides of the tracks but at some point they were taken away to be replaced with some awful prefabricated structure. To call it a shelter would be unkind to other shelters. It may gleam in its Southern Railway green paint but no amount of paint is going to disguise that the fact that it looks like old cardboard boxes. The spanking new ticket gates cruelly show up what a toilet the station is – except of course there is no toilet…

The Evening Star

Gloomy February in Brighton - the station looms at the end of Surrey Street

It was extraordinarily foggy in Brighton and when I arrived it was difficult to make out the country end of the platforms. It was cold too. But the dense, prematurely dark gloom only made the Evening Star even more welcome than normal. The atmosphere was lively and predominantly male this evening. The popularity meant that we were sharing a table with two other parties – something that often happens in the Evening Star.

Dressed lightly for a gig the cold had got to me so my first drink was a coffee. You can choose from instant or cafetiere – choose the latter, it was superb.

The welcoming Evening Star

After that it was beer. The Evening Star (pub review here) belongs to the Dark Star brewery so you expect some of their beers. Tonight the cask choices were Dark Star Hophead, Golden Gate and Sussex Original, with Milton Pegasus and another couple of guests which I’ve forgotten.

Now in London (somewhere like the Harp) I’d normally opt for Hophead but here I went for the Golden Gate. After the coffee the citrus of the Golden Gate really cut through – much more so than the Hophead that Jon had.

Only a brief visit to the Evening Star this time as we were hungry and wanted to eat before the gig. So back out into the gloom.

The Basketmakers Arms

Brighton pubs are great when the sun is shining but in this dark, misty gloom they welcome you like a long lost friend. It was fully dark by the time we reached the Basketmakers so no usable pictures from my mobile unfortunately.

Delicious whitebait from a previous visit to the Basketmakers Arms

We’d chosen the Basketmakers as the food is very good – and the beer too (See my Basketmakers review). First drink was a Gales HSB while we pondered the menu. The HSB was excellent as usual although I’m sure it’s not as dark as it used to be – something I thought during a recent trip to the Royal Oak in Borough where Gales HSB is a regular guest. Comparing the colour of what we had with the HSB photo on my photo page for the Round House in Covent Garden I’d say the current HSB seems much redder.

Food-wise I opted for a delicious Haddock and Chips – good portions, and well cooked. The girl at the next table was having a whole baked camembert which I’d missed on the menu but it looked amazing. I’d imagine a whole one might be too much – you could share it with a portion of whitebait which is also good here.

Just time for another beer so we tried the Castle Rock Preservation. Lighter in character than the HSB it’s still quite full flavoured but the hops are much more restrained than the Dark Star beers from earlier.

It’s good to see that Fullers allow two guest beers at the Basketmakers now – the other was Butcombe Bitter.

Being at two out of my three ‘golden triangle’ pubs in Brighton (we missed the Lord Nelson) of course prompted discussions about which one was best. It’s a conversation that never gets resolved but for all round appeal I’d say the Basketmakers Arms was the best pub in Brighton (that I know about). They even let children in too – a mixed blessing of course.

British Sea Power

After leaving the Basketmakers we strolled down to Komedia on Gardner Street – only to bump into a few people we’d just seen at the Basketmakers. I’d never been to this venue before but I’d definitely go again. It’s not a huge venue but it’s not tiny either. The sound and view were both superb and the placing of the bar in a separate area (like the Cavern in Exeter) makes for a better experience in my opinion. The bar sold bottles of Hepworths Sussex and Iron Horse – makes a change from Fosters etc.

British Sea Power were brilliant and they played a lot from their first album as well as the new Valhalla Dancehall. A cut-down excerpt from Man Of Aran was good too. The support – Team Me from Norway were also excellent. They weaved some amazing textures and complicated rhythms in their short set and I bought their EP.

So straight out the door after the single encore for a swift walk/run back up the hill to the station. We just made the train…

Related Items

• My pub reviews of Brighton
• Post on previous Brighton pub crawl
• Google map of Brighton pub crawl

With a slightly earler departure from work and a bit of time invested on a train you can be in many interesting places. Using the discount available with an annual gold card is useful too.

Late last week it was Brighton’s turn and I’d like to share with you my mini pub crawl of 3 real ale pubs in the seaside city. The crawl doesn’t take you far from the station, and in fact nowhere near the sea but the sound of the seagulls will reassure you that it’s over there somewhere.

So, leave Brighton station by the front entrance and head over to the right of the cab stand and turn left down the hill that emerges blinking from under the station frontage. This is the top of Trafalgar Street. As you go down the hill look out for the first pub on the itinerary – The Lord Nelson at 36 Trafalgar Street.

The Lord Nelson

Lord Nelson, Brighton

The Lord Nelson is a traditional Harvey’s pub. It looks tiny from the outside but is actually bigger inside. The Gallery Room out the back features local art and becomes a family room at weekends.

The pub carries most of the Harvey’s range and the beers are kept very well.

Food is not available in the evenings so if you want something to eat it’s best to wait to the next pub – the Basketmakers Arms.

So when you’re ready to move on, carry on down Trafalgar Street and then take one of the roads on the right – Sydney Street is a good one for North Laine shops and then turn left onto Gloucester Place. The Basketmakers is down the hill on the right hand side.

The Basketmakers Arms

Basketmakers Arms, Brighton

The Basketmakers Arms (12 Gloucester Rd) is a Fuller’s pub these days, but was formerly one of Brighton’s Gale’s pubs. This pub is consistently busy but that is due to it being one of the finest pubs in Brighton. It’s a friendly, lively place.

As well as the standard Fuller’s London beer selection, The Basketmakers offer one or two Gales beers and there is usually a guest beer of some sort. The Gales HSB is always excellent, and when available the Gales Festival Mild hits the spot too.
I always eat at the Basketmakers Arms when on pub visits to Brighton as the food is superb. Choose from a varied and reasonably priced menu.
As well as beer and food, the pub is worth a visit just for the collection of old photographs, signs and other memorabilia.

But come on now, it’s time to move on to the 3rd and final pub. So head straight back up Gloucester Road – right to the top, carefully cross over into the middle of the small one way system and turn right into Surrey Street and there you’ll find The Evening Star.

The Evening Star

Evening Star, Brighton

The tiny Evening Star (55 Surrey St) is run by the Dark Star Brewery so you’ll not be surprised to hear that several beers from their range are available including Hophead permanently, as well as guests from other micros, real ciders, and a good selection of belgian bottled beers.

Now you’ll understand why there are only three pubs on this crawl and that this is the last one. Don’t forget to actually get your train home – fortunately the station is not too far away.

The pub is full of friendly people who love good beer – whether that’s what you’re looking for is up to you. For me the Evening Star is a must for any trip to Brighton.

That is the regular pattern of my evening trips to Brighton, but if you’re feeling adventurous and looking for an alternative then try the Shakespeare’s Head.

The Shakespeare’s Head

Situated about 10 mins walk north-west of the station The Shakespeare’s Head (1 Chatham Place) is Brighton’s Hall & Woodhouse pub.

It’s location means it’s away from the central circuit but it’s still worth a trip – don’t be put off by the dingy exterior. If you like Badger beers then 2 or 3 are available on draught and they carry many of the bottled range too. The Badger Best I had tasted very good.

Another significant reason to visit the Shakespeare’s Head is the famous selection of sausages. First choose your sausages then choose your mash (yes, more than one type) and then choose your gravy. End result is a plate full of heaven.

View a Google map of this pub crawl.

Next week, Winchester.